Spartohori, or the village with the three grandmothers

Let’s tell you about the village of Spartohori, which we visit while kayaking around Lefkada island.
We reach it by kayaks, starting from Desimi campsite. It is located on Meganisi island, which is one of the lesser known Greek islands. It is part of the Ionian group and is close to the southeast coast of Lefkada, so it is best suited for a day visit.

You’ve heard of Ithaca, the birthplace of Odysseus, where his wife Penelope waited for him for 20 years. Well, Meganisi looks a lot like Neto! Hilly green topography, rocky beaches in 50 shades of blue and quiet villages (even one of the three villages on the island is named after Ithaca’s capital, Vati).

The coastline in the north of the island is heavily indented, with fjord-like bays and cliffs, and all the settlements are here – Spartohori, Vathi and Katomeri. The southern side of the island is uninhabited and ends in a long, thin, tail-like piece of land. The attraction of the island is the large sea cave Papanikolis, accessible by boat.

All the beaches have pebbles or rocks, which adds to the water clarity you’ll notice on the island. The lack of fine sand also ensures no crowds, even in July and August, especially those far from the villages. Apart from Spilia, which has a tavernas in the summer, another organised beach is Fanari in the north-east – it has a small beach bar with umbrellas and sunbeds. Meganisi’s other beaches are pristine – Megalo Limonari, Micro Limonari and Agios Ioannis. It is the latter that is touted as the most beautiful beach on the island, a long and narrow strip with pebbles and patches of light and dark blue in the water, overlooking the island. Lefakda and the islet of Tilia.

Spartohori has all the hallmarks of a fairytale Greek village: small winding streets, blue wooden kennels, the scent of spring and summer and buzzing bees – what does a person need? You may not meet more than two people on its streets, but at least you know that these two are living the good life – relaxed and happy. Because they live in a little paradise.